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Review | Kitchen Nightmares

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AIR DATE TUESDAY 1/26

Chest out and hair tousled, Gordon Ramsay fires up a new season as if he's Superman. That's fine, because the four clueless women running Philadelphia's flailing Hot Potato Cafe need a hero (and judging by their helplessness, a therapist too).

The snags? For starters, their few customers spit out the food (three-week-old frozen potato skins will do that). They're so inept and in debt, in fact, that when Ramsay comes in and works his magic, the turnaround is suspiciously quick — making this episode feel prepackaged. But make no mistake: Ramsay is a hero. He gets the ladies to serve smaller portions and, in a touching moment, encourages one to dry her eyes and grow up. If only every restaurateur had his chops. (Fox, 9 P.M.)

— JOHN GRIFFITHS

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